Many thanks!

nice art.

Sebastian Echavarrria
Stgo de chile.

Have you tried the GBDeflicker yet? I’m a bit new to timelapses, but get flickering since I use lenses with electronic Aperture (Zeiss ZE) which will have slight variations from the ap blades not closing 110% exact each time (yes, I shoot manual).

I also read on their website (GBS), that the more closed down the iris is, it will have less deviation of the electronic iris. ie: more flicker/variation with wider/brighter ap (f/2, f/2.8, etc.) than less flickery closed down ap (f/8,/f/11, etc.)

I notice GBDeflicker works pretty well in AE. Never used AE, but will use it just to import a flickery lapse video, then export it out, then re-use that clip in FCP.

E

I have a question I try to formulate (my english is not very good).

You say that most of the shots are setting with an interval of 1 or 4 seconds.
But most of them needed an exposure superior to 4 seconds, did’nt they ?

How do you do in this case : your camera is set to AV mode, the shutter speeds change (until 10 sec, I assume, for darkest scenes), despite your intervallometer is set to 4 seconds ? So the camera took the hand and did the exposure needed ? But it affects the duration of the timelapse and especially the motion in the shot (acceleration or slowing), does it ?

Or perhaps your intervallometer interrupts the still at 4 seconds, despite the AV priority mode says 10 seconds ?

I hope you’ll understand my interrogations…

Thanks for all, Philip !

quick question about white balance. i’ve seen you say set it to manual, which is all well & good, but you’re not there to change it on a 4 day time lapse, so have you found a good color temp. that works for those long day to night shots?

also, when you say you’re changing in post, are you changing the white balance in magic bullets?

How is the Satechi TR-A working? I’m between that or the Canon TC-80N3 Anything on line? Thanks!